Sailing the Swan Trail (Łabędzi Szlak): Through a Maze of Islands on Lake Kisajno
The Swan Trail (Łabędzi Szlak) on Lake Kisajno absolutely won me over. Sailing through this maze of islands is one of my fondest memories of the Masurian Lakes. I couldn’t agree more with those who say this is one of the most spectacular sailing routes in the whole of Masuria. It’s wild, picturesque and wonderfully quiet. All you can hear is the water lapping against the hull, the wind, birds calling and the occasional greeting from passing sailors. It all feels almost idyllic, with nature all around you. It’s not all plain sailing, though. Sailing the Swan Trail calls for a fair bit of skill at the helm and your full attention. We set off from Piękna Góra, near Giżycko. Around Łabędzi Ostrów Marina, we came across plenty of kayakers. A little further on, we entered the Swan Trail through the passage between the Mały Ostrów peninsula and Duży Ostrów Island. The route winds northwards for roughly 6 km.
We were under sail, of course. This is an exceptionally peaceful area and an important haven for wildlife, so it’s worth keeping the noise down and leaving the birds undisturbed. The islands here are protected nesting sites and form part of the Wyspy na jeziorach Mamry i Kisajno Nature Reserve, established in 1957. The reserve covers twenty islands across Lakes Mamry and Kisajno. Birds found here include cormorants, grey herons, grebes and cranes. Landing on the islands or tying up along their shores is prohibited. You can, however, drop anchor in a suitable spot outside the reserve boundaries, provided you don’t disturb the wildlife or pose a hazard to other boats. Keeping the noise down is simply good sailing manners, too.
The first island we passed was Duży Ostrów, the largest island on Lake Kisajno. It’s also associated with the history of the Galindians, who once lived in this part of Masuria. The weather wasn’t exactly romantic, so we decided to give the little hidden bay on the eastern side a miss. It’s called Pawie Oczko (Peacock’s Eye), though it’s also known as Zatoczka Miłości – the Bay of Love. Instead, we kept to the western side of the trail and found a spot to drop anchor, outside the reserve boundaries and safely clear of the reedbeds and the fairway, so we could have breakfast. Afterwards, we weighed anchor, hoisted the sails and got under way again. Near Gucki Róg, we sailed through the passage between the peninsula and Górny Ostrów Island, then headed for Zimny Kąt Bay to spend the night.
Further north, the sheltered passages between the islands eventually give way to the more open waters of Lake Kisajno. From there, you can sail on towards Lake Dargin and the harbour at Sztynort.
The weather on the Swan Trail wasn’t exactly kind to us, but it didn’t spoil my enjoyment of sailing one bit. Quite the opposite. The maze of islands, the peace and quiet, and the natural beauty all around us made a huge impression on me. What a beautiful part of Masuria. A memory I’ll look back on fondly.
August 2026
