An Epic Masurian Voyage: Uncovering the Legend of Port Nowy Sztynort
I’d heard stories about the port of Sztynort long before I finally sailed in. Beautifully situated and exceptionally well organised, it’s a modern marina — the largest in the Masurian Lake District, with berths for up to 450 yachts. And I have to say, the place completely bowled me over. What impressed me most wasn’t just the modern facilities, but the lively food and cultural scene and the obvious care taken to preserve the heritage of the Prussian Lehndorff family, who once owned the estate. Another big plus for visiting sailors is that, despite its rather upmarket reputation, the marina doesn’t charge extra for every little thing. Showers and toilets are included in the standard mooring fee, which makes a refreshing change in this part of the world. It’s a great place not only to enjoy a good meal, but also to spend some time exploring and soaking up the atmosphere. Yes, it gets crowded, but there’s something quite special about Sztynort.
Even getting into Sztynort is an adventure in itself. The approach calls for good seamanship and your full attention. A mistake here could have serious consequences, particularly when crossing Lake Dargin. Near the former settlement of Alt Steinort lies a treacherous stretch of submerged rocks, roughly 200 metres long, with some lurking just half a metre below the surface. Although the danger is marked by cardinal buoys, it’s essential to keep a close eye on your course. The markers don’t cover every hazard, and there are isolated boulders further west of the buoyed area. Our experience suggested keeping closer to the reed beds along the eastern shore or giving the dangerous shallows a wide berth. Either way, this is not somewhere to navigate by guesswork. Always check the latest nautical charts and local navigation notices before attempting the approach.
The entrance to the port is through the Sztynort Canal, which connects Lake Dargin with Lake Sztynorckie. Hidden away along the north-eastern shore, it’s surprisingly difficult to pick out from the open water. The entrance blends almost completely into a thick wall of trees and reeds. For me, the most useful clue was simply watching the other yachts, which seemed to appear or disappear suddenly among the greenery. It was quite a sight. I remember passing through the canal with a fair bit of excitement. You motor along in single file, keeping firmly to your own side of the channel. The canal is only about 170–200 metres long, but it follows a pronounced C-shaped bend. Fortunately, there are no low bridges or overhead power lines to worry about, so there’s no need to lower the mast. With thick trees sheltering both banks, strong winds are rarely a problem here. As soon as we emerged from the canal, we found ourselves on the peaceful waters of Lake Sztynorckie. From there, it was a straightforward run to the modern marina, now known as Port Nowy Sztynort.
Once we’d made it through the canal, the initial tension finally began to ease. I was almost speechless when I saw the marina for the first time. It felt like arriving in an entirely different world. From the water, Sztynort makes an enormous impression, although the sheer forest of masts stretching towards the horizon can be rather intimidating at first. I’ll admit that the berthing manoeuvres made us a little nervous. Anyone who’s moored here will know exactly what I mean. You get the distinct impression that at least a dozen pairs of eyes are following your every move. And, of course, the wind inside the marina has a habit of swirling around and catching you out at precisely the wrong moment. But that’s all part of the charm — and the adrenaline — of sailing!
What I particularly loved was the wonderful sense of camaraderie. We experienced it first-hand. You’ve barely had time to throw a mooring line before someone from a neighbouring yacht reaches out to lend a hand. I’d definitely recommend arriving in Sztynort a little earlier in the day. It makes finding a berth much less stressful, makes mooring easier and gives you a better chance of securing a good spot on one of the main pontoons. Once you’re safely tied up, you head to the harbourmaster’s office to sort out the formalities. As proof of payment, you’re given a wristband to hang somewhere clearly visible on the yacht.
It took me a little while to catch my breath and get used to all the hustle and bustle. But once the initial excitement had worn off, I began to appreciate just how distinctive the atmosphere really was. On the one hand, there’s a modern, lively marina; on the other, a remarkable corner of Masuria where a complicated history is still very much alive, and sailing traditions mingle with the past. Experiencing that combination was something quite special. It was particularly satisfying to see the progress being made on the restoration of the historic Lehndorff family estate. Equally fascinating was the way the old estate outbuildings had been renovated and given new purposes. One of these historic buildings is home to Tawerna Zęza (the Bilge Tavern), where we stopped for something to eat. The food was excellent and very reasonably priced. I also became quite a fan of their local craft beers, which I’d happily recommend. My only disappointment was that the wheat beer was available only in an alcohol-free version. Fingers crossed that changes in the coming seasons!
Our stopover also gave us the perfect opportunity to restock the galley. We did our main food shop at the marina’s grocery shop, which was reasonably well stocked. At the local chandlery, meanwhile, I managed to pick up a pair of waterproof sailing trousers for just 45 PLN. They turned out to be worth their weight in gold the very next day, when we found ourselves sailing through a proper downpour. The friendly young woman behind the counter even put a lovely souvenir stamp bearing the port’s logo in my personal sailing logbook when I asked. A small thing, perhaps, but exactly the sort of detail I enjoy remembering from a voyage. Once everything on board was properly stowed, we headed off for a proper skipper’s feast at Grill Portowy, where we ordered enormous grilled T-bone steaks. They certainly weren’t cheap, but they were delicious.
There was something wonderfully atmospheric about the sunset that evening. The sky turned pink, providing a beautiful backdrop to the forest of masts rising above the yachts moored in front of us. We relaxed on deck, and as dusk fell, the marina gradually filled with the cheerful hum of people enjoying their evening. Right next to us, the crew of a neighbouring yacht were doing a rather good job of singing sea shanties accompanied by a guitar.
The following morning brought a completely unexpected surprise. Quite early on, a proper pirate of a cat appeared on our deck, tail held proudly high, looking as though it was preparing to board us without so much as asking permission. It wandered about, had a good look around the yacht, inspected the cockpit and behaved as though it owned the whole boat. It was such a lovely, funny and unforgettable little encounter just before we cast off.
Although I personally prefer wilder, more secluded places, I have to admit that Sztynort has a charm all of its own. It’s a truly special harbour, and I’ll happily return. After all, there’s only one Sztynort.
August 2026
